Berkeley CSUA MOTD:Entry 37721
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2024/11/23 [General] UID:1000 Activity:popular
11/23   

2005/5/17-18 [Recreation/Pets] UID:37721 Activity:very high
5/17    My garden has big rat and previous attempts of poisonous baits
        were not effective at all.  I am considering using mouse cage to
        catch the rat but I am concerning with the disposal of the rat.
        What is a humane way to dispose the caged rat?
        \_ May I ask where you live?
        \_ it might sound nasty, but... boil a pot of water and pour on it.
           then burry it somewhere.   you don't want to touch it, and kill
           them by physical means gets nasty... blood everywhere, etc. mind
           you that when rat dies, it tend to poop, so, you want to do it
           outside somwhere.            -been there, done that
        \_ 22 or BB gun
           \_ I agree. BB gun is a lot more fun too, though it's not always
              that effective (you can't get rats when it's dark). They're good
              for gopher shooting though.
        \_ There's no such thing as one rat.
        \_ Take it to Tilden Park and let it go.
        \_ Are you using mouse poison or rat poison?
        \_ Wait... poison... humane?  Dude, rat poison is not a pleasant death.
        \_ Feed it rat poison.
        \_ Feed it to a snake.
        \_ Take it to Casa Zimbabwe and let it rejoin its family.
           \_ <clap> <clap>
           \_ I lived in CZ and had mice, but not rats. A few traps and
              they figured out to stay away from me. They are smart little
              buggers. They would purposefully pass by my room.
              \_ What about the fleas, coop residents, and other assorted
                 vermin?  -John
                 \_ Never had fleas. The residents, well...
                    \_ We had several infestations while I was there, and
                       often it was some of the residents that had the fleas.
                       I just vividly remember one of the vegan nutjobs
                       nearly throwing a shitfit at the idea of gas-bombing
                       the place because she wouldn't have chemicals.  She
                       stormed out of a house meeting after all the semi-sane
                       people laughed at her idea that we all just eat more
                       garlic because the fleas would hate it.  And almost
                       every building where there's food lying around has
                       mice, it's just a question of scale.  -John
              \_ There were plenty of mice in the radiators.  As for the
                 compost heap, I believe it had plenty of rats.
                 \_ Probably. They are always rats outside. That's why the
                    original poster is a putz. Rats live, uh, outside. I
                    never saw a rat inside of CZ, though. Mice, yes.
                    \_ Wow.  are people really this stupid?
                       \_ No, just you.
        \_ A spring trap, while gruesome, is a pretty quick death if you pick
           the rat-size ones.
           \_ Unfortunately, even the rat-sized spring traps don't always kill
              rats right away.  My girlfriend managed to get a rat with its
              nose cut off running around the living room, bleeding all over
              everything.  It did die eventually, though.
           \_ What if a cat steps in it?
              \_ Nobody said anything about cats.  Can you place a trap inside?
                 \_ Wow, way to think ahead.  It's a *garden*, so it's outdoors,
                    where cats are...
              \_ The cat doesn't catch rats?
                 \_ "...and we get the cat skins for nothing"
        \_ The 'easiest' way would be to drown the rat by sinking the
           cage under water. Rats are like mosquito, you need to get
           'rid' of it, not relocating it.
           \_ Think 'Caddyshack'.  -meyers
        \_ My friend's roommate has a cat that keeps catching mice in the
           apartment. Get a hunter cat (abassinian?) to take care of the rats.
           \- do you marry a plumber if you have a "plumbing problem"?
              "get a cat"is not the solution to the vermin problem, it is
              a solution to the "i dont have a cat and would like one"
              problem. maybe hire a cat.
           \_ I used to keep an applehead siamese and it regularly caught
              rats and mice outside (though other small animals fell victims
              to it too. I guess that's the collateral damage)
        \_ Flush it down the toilet.
           \_ you can clog the toilet.
        \_ You want to get rid of your roommate?
        \_ My dad got a high-powered rifle with IR & laser scope for the
           muskrats on his farm.  That may not be the most practical solution,
           but it's sure the most entertaining one if you don't mind a bit
           of a mess (and have tolerant neighbors.)
           \_ Too much for a rat.  Just a simple 22LR with subsonic ammo will do.
              \_ Muskrats.  Big 2 foot long fuckers.  I recommend you watch
                 'Split Second' for how to deal with rats.  -John
        \_ What do people think of RatZapper?  Sounds like it would work well
           indoors:  http://www.epestsupply.com/mice.htm
2024/11/23 [General] UID:1000 Activity:popular
11/23   

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Cache (8192 bytes)
www.epestsupply.com/mice.htm
gif (2004 bytes) mouse house mouse mice Don't Waste Money By Buying Over The Counter Rat Bait ! We Sell Only Professional Quality Rat and Mice Control Products At Guaranteed Everyday Low Prices ! Recommended Products GUARANTEED LOWEST PRICES - ANYWHERE ON THE INTERNET ! jpg (4664 bytes) Rats and Mice have been responsible for or implicated in the spread of v arious diseases to people and domestic animals for years. Today however , because of improvements in sanitation, effective drugs, and rodent an d insect control programs, the disease threat from rodents is not as si gnificant as it once was. However small the threat may be, it is a potential that alwa ys must be kept in mind. Some of the more common diseases transmitted by rats and mice or parasit es that they carry are - Plague - which is spread from rats to people by the oriental rat flea. Murine Typhus - caused by a bacterial organism which is transmitted from infected rats to people also by the oriental rat flea. Rickettsial pox - also caused by a bacterial organism is transmitted by mites from mice to people. Mainly in areas of New York City and several New England Cities. Salmonellosis (acute food poisoning) - is caused by a bacterium which ca n thrive in sewers, live stock facilities, septic tanks, cesspools, gar bage, and other similar environments. It is spread mainly by fecal drop pings by rats and mice. Rat Bite Fever - is caused by a bacterium which can live in the saliva o f both rats and mice. It has flu like symptoms that can last for days a nd is sometimes fatal. Leptospirosis, Lymphocytic choriomeningitis, trichinosis, typhoid, dysen tery as well as others. Rats and mice almost always leave signs that can lead to their discovery . The ten signs to look for are: 1 droppings or feces 2 tracks 3 gnawing damage 4 burrows 5 runways 6 grease marks or rub marks 7 urine stains (which can be discovered with a blacklight) 8 live or dead rodents 9 rodent sounds 10. rodent odors (especially mice) There are 3 main species of rats and mice that are of significance in th e United States. They are the Roof Rat or tree Rat, the Norway Rat or g round rat, and the House Mouse. Of course there are lots of other speci es such as field mice, field rats, wharf rats, sewer rats, etc.. but th e Roof Rats and Norway Rats and the House Mouse are the ones of primary importance. They are the species of commensal rodents that homeowners and building owners deal with 90% of the time. Roof Rat The Roof Rat Has A Long Tail, Large Ears and Has A Slender Body. Roof Rats Are Commonly Found In Trees, Attics, Old Houses, And Is the #1 Rodent Found In Inner Cities. Norway Rat Norway Rats Have Small Ears, Short Tail, and Have A Fat Rounded Body. Norway Rats Are Commonly Found In Fields, Sewers, Living Under Debris, E tc. They Are The #1 Rat Infesting Barns, Poultry Houses, and Rural Areas. House Mouse The House Mouse Generally Lives Inside or Near Homes. They Are The #1 Mouse Infesting Inner City Homes and Buildings. How To Kill Rats and Mice In your personal battle against rodents such as rats and mice, it is imp ortant to remember that you are dealing with an animal that is capable of crawling, climbing, and chewing it's way into your home or business. They can flatten themselves out and squeeze through the smallest of o penings, even under closed doors. If the hole is not big enough, they can easily chew it or gnaw it to a large enough size so that they can get through. Generally, if a rodent can squeeze it's head through an o pening, (most rodents heads are the size of a quarter or smaller), it w ill eventually get through. This is why your strategy for rat or mice control always starts on the outside of the structure. Outdoors - The first thing to do is to make sure that there are no holes that the rodents can get through. Check all plumbing and electrical e ntrances, doors, folding garage doors, etc. Also check behind gutters , around chimney and plumbing stack flashing, and in the case of raised or pier and beam homes, make sure that they cannot get access under th e foundation or skirting or through screened vents. The point is that any hole on the outside of the house can give rats or mice entrance. I f the hole is not big enough, the rats or mice will gnaw it to make it bigger. Rats must constantly gnaw and sharpen their teeth to keep them filed down. Protecta Bait Station Outside rodent "Exclusion" is very simple in mo st cases, however most pest control companies may charge upwards of seve ral hundred dollars for this service. Stuffit Copper Wool placed in weep holes, pipe entranc es, etc. Larger holes need to be fixed or repaired properly with quality building mater ials. You may wish to consult a building contractor for this service. It is also very important to make sure that tree limbs, shrubs, etc, do n ot overhang the structure and are trimmed back at least 5 feet. Overhan ging tree limbs can provide relatively easy access to the rooftop - espe cially for roof rats which are capable of jumping several feet. Any aerial electrical or utility lines that enter the structure should be rodent proofed. This is easily accomplished by placing Crisco, Bearing lube or some other thick greasy slippery substance on the line. Specia l caution should be used when applying anything to electrical lines or l ines that contain any voltage or electrical current. Special wraps can also be placed onto utility lines that are cut and made from aluminum ro lls available at any hardware store. A paper plate can be used as a tem plate and traced onto the aluminum. Shears can then be used to cut and fashion the aluminum in such a way that it can be fastened onto the wire or cable to make a "block" on the wire that the rodents cannot get arou nd. You may wish to contact your local electrical or utility company pr ior to making such applications. Contrac rodenticide is a wax based outdoo r bait that kills rodents dead with one feeding, unlike DCON and other b aits that require multiple feedings. It is very toxic, that is the reas on it is only used outdoors in protected feeding stations such as the Pr otecta. Protecta's are easily placed behind shrubs, ornamental plants, etc, or openly placed along foundation walls. They provide the rodents exactly what they are looking for, food and shelter - hopefully before t hey find their way into your home. Outside rodent bait stations are com monly used around commercial buildings, restaurants, food processing pla nts, etc. Rat Rock lo oks like a rock, but is actually a well designed sturdy rat feeding stat ion. Rat Rocks are very popular at restaurants, amusement parks and oth er places where a rodent feeding station would be an eyesore. Before using any outdoor bait station, make sure that there are not compe ting food sources for the rodents. Garbage, pet food, animal feed, etc, are much more acceptable to rodents than any rodent bait. Even though rats and mice will eat almost anything, the effectiveness of any outdoor baiting program depends on sanitation practices. If sanitation practic es are an issue, the effectiveness of your baiting program will be minim al. In other words, if the outside areas contain garbage, pet food, ani mal feed, etc, the rats or mice usually will not eat the bait. Indoors - After the outside environment has been cleaned up, sealed up a nd outdoor bait stations have been used, inside control can begin. The idea is that once the outside environment has been repaired and cleane d up, hopefully, the rodents will unable to gain entrance to the home o r building and will be happy either remaining outside, until they consu me the outside bait, or they will be trapped inside. We do not recommend using rat baits or rodenticides indoors. If a roden t eats a rodenticide indoors, unless it can find its way out of the str ucture before the effects of the rodenticide set in - usually 3 to 5 da ys, it will die indoors. There is no such thing as a rodenticide or a rat bait that causes the rodent to become thirsty and look for water. There is also no such thing as a rodenticide that causes the rodents bo dy to not smell or to dry out during the rotting phase....