Berkeley CSUA MOTD:Entry 36538
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2025/05/24 [General] UID:1000 Activity:popular
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2005/3/5-8 [Science/Battery] UID:36538 Activity:low
3/5     So I want to buy an extra camera battery.  If I buy one with
        the name of the OEM on the battery, it's about $45.  If I buy
        one from a 3rd party, I can get it for around $12 and it has more
        Amp-hrs.  What's the deal?
        \_ I've heard that cheaps brand don't last as long and/or that the
           Amp-hrs they claim is not accurate, but I've yet to seen a
           study on it. Maybe consumer rights activists should benchmark
           these things . However, as you pointed out $12 is a good deal
           so it's probably worth the try. BTW I don't personally buy name
           brand anymore... you're mostly paying for the stupid name.
        \_ http://csua.com/Science/Battery
           Look for entry 12256 which has pointers to info on batteries
           \- The batties start to die upon mfgr, so I suspect some of the
              really cheap batteries are middle aged. For the Nikon D70, a
              Nikon branded battery is about $40-44. There are repuatable off-
              branded sources for $30 ... I image those will perform ok and
              not leak and destory your machine. Not so sure about the $8
              ones from ebay. I dont mind being out $10 for a poor battery,
              but I dont want something that will leak.
        \_ This is one reason why I chose a P&S camera that takes AA batteries.
        \_ I have a Canon 1100 A-Hr battery and a No-name 1800 A-Hr battery
           that I bought in Singapore. Both work fine w/ my 300D. However,
           the 1800 A-Hr battery has degraded a bit (fewer shots in a full
           charge) since I purchased it, but the 1100 A-Hr Canon battery
           seems to be able to take the same number of shots. I have used
           the 1800 A-Hr battery in many more cycles than the 1100 A-Hr
           battery, so perhaps the 1100 merely appears better b/c it has
           been through less cycles, I'm not sure
2025/05/24 [General] UID:1000 Activity:popular
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2009/1/7-12 [Science/Battery, Computer/SW/OS/OsX] UID:52329 Activity:low
1/7     new macbook 17" THE BIG ONE not the portable, has a non removable
        8 hour battery.  Dicuss.
        \_ it's like the airbook
           \_ no it's not, it's giant and i'm not going to carry that thing
        \_ stupid idea, will alienate customers.
         \_ Who will it alienate?  Assuming they can get longer battery
	...
2008/8/29-9/3 [Science/Battery] UID:50997 Activity:nil
8/29    I have 2 AA rechargeable batteries. One is at 300mAH and the other
        one is at 600mAH. They used to be 2400mAH. Is there anything useful
        I can use them for?
        \_ How do you know this?
           \_ http://www.amazon.com/Crosse-Technology-BC-900-AlphaPower-Battery/dp/B00077AA5Q/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1220035985&sr=8-1
           \_ http://www.amazon.com/Crosse-Technology-BC-900-AlphaPower-Battery/dp/B00077AA5Q
	...
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If I buy one with the name of the OEM on the battery, it's about $45. If I buy one from a 3rd party, I can get it for around $12 and it has more Amp-hrs. Maybe consumer rights activists should benchmark these things . However, as you pointed out $12 is a good deal so it's probably worth the try. If I take 2 of my AA NiMH battery and add it up, the capacity is larger than my laptop battery's rated mah.... Since your AA batery is 15V and the laptop's is around 15, the laptop's battery has about 20 times as much energy as an AA battery. You could approximate a laptop battery with 2 columns of 10 AA batteries in series. Getting it wrong could let out all the smoke in your circuits. Is it best to keep them charged most of the time, or use them up and then charge? For example my cell phone has a standby of 3 days, should I charge up everyday, or wait till it's almost dead and then charge it up? For Li-ion batteries, the consensus seems to be that you should charge them all the time; they don't have a memory, and completely draining them is bad. I've considered epoxying the battery door to the phone, but I'm worried that if the Li-Ion battery wears out, it'll be near impossible to change it. Have you considered epoxying back the little clip, rather than the entire door? I'm worried doing just the open button/clip might not be strong enough. Another possibility is to make a form so the epoxy itself will solidify in the shape of the little chip. If you're interested, look up photos of the Audiovox VM4050, 9900 or 9950 \_ Get some colorful rubber bands, like the kind women use for hair. Sharp Actius MM10 -tom \_ I have a Pentium III 12 GHz notebook, and two batteries last 4 hours. I believe any Pentium M notebook will last 35-5 hours with just the main battery. This is assuming you aren't compiling or playing games most of the time but doing MS Word Powerpoint type work. I understand Pentium 4 based notebooks (mobile or desktop CPU) and mobile Athlons (even the new ones) suck power, so watch out. I had a thinkpad where I thought the battery was busted, I bought a new battery, and it turned out that it was not the battery, it was something in the laptop's charging circuits or something. It doesn't give any explanation for what the higher wattage would be good for. The only thing I can think of that seems reasonable is if you want your laptop to power large USB devices or something. The 90W adapter it probably so you can charge your battery faster, or run your laptop at full power and still charge the battery at full speed. There's a lot of battery powered FM transmitters that can be had for about $20-30. I got the Belkin one, but you can only select from four different frequencies: All of which are occupied whenever I drive over to my folks' in Modesto. So just get one that allows you to select more than 4 frequencies. I don't think iRiverhas enough pop culture status in US for any US companies to make the effort. I have run across a Taiwanese company that made rubber skins for iRiver stuff, so you may have to look into Asian markets for such a product. Are the headphone plug and the power plug on the same side? Kind of makes me wonder if the combo transmitter/charger unit from Monster would be even better ... I'm going to use it occasionally, and I want it to last. NiMH is almost guarenteed to start failing within a year or two. If you want to keep it fresh you basically need to do a deep discharge/ charge on it once it starts failing. I'm not quite sure if storing it away discharged will help the situation, as the batteries will degrade on their own over time. Storing it charged will not likely make much of a difference as the battery will lose voltage over time on their own, they actually will slowly leak electricty. The key thing is not to charge or discharge NiMH batteries in bursts, as they will have a memory effect. org/u/3m8 If it does not damage the car battery or the device, is this a good price? Quick search on the web shows prices of $28-$29 for that model. One site also showed 60W continuous, 75W for 5 minutes, 150W surge for the XPower 75. However, my laptop (Tecra 9100) requires 15V and 5A, so it seems it would only get charged for 5 minutes. Is that the case, or would laptop batteries charge on 60W continous? loading your electrical system while the engine is running is fine, as long as your alternator isn't on its last legs. If so, isn't it true that as more people get the same kind of phones the more likely you'll get crosstalk and bad reception? Anybody happen to know the range of frequencies that a typical phone uses? I've used many of both and my favorite *by far* was a 900Mhz uniden-- no static, no crosstalk, no problems. If you pop open the battery casing you can probably find a serial number; type "uniden battery" along with that # into google and and you can find some quality resellers... I replaced mine with a longer per-charge battery for about $18 incl. I'd rather not have a phone that interferes with my wireless network. I saw quite a few on the web, but i'd rather not buy some expensive thing if i'm not *sure* it will work. What about powering your laptop with alternate sources like a car battery or something like that? i know there is a flashlight you can charge with human power. Fry's is great for try-and-buy, as long as there's no restocking fee. Since it has a half-life of 22 days in sunlight, and evaporates easily I just left it in the backyard in a canteen and it was all gone in a day. We have all kinds of rules we have to follow to make sure that the organic solvents are disposed of "properly" , but as I understand it, it all just gets burned in the end. I'm sure there's a better way, but what you're doing is no worse than the EPA-approved official disposal method. They also don't have memory, so you can recharge them at any point in their drain cycle. They last longer per charge, but their useful life cycle is lower than NiCd. Are they available in AA and CR123A (camera battery) sizes? They purport to be 15V and come in the normal 15V alkaline sizes, like AAA, AA, C, D (I tihnk they come in the last two, anyway). My car battery died this morning even though I didn't leave any lights on. It's the original battery since I bought the car new in 1996. Its time to get a new battery, though seeing if the battery can hold a charge can be a good idea if the battery is newer than, let's say, 3 years. I heard that battery last a bit longer in a colder climate. current audi will probably only make 5 i blame the alarm etc. It runs fine on AC power, but randomly shuts off when running on battery power. I'm pretty sure it's not the battery because this behavior has been repeated with several different batteries. Does anyone know what might cause this sort of behavior? Does anyone have any experience dealing with Sony support or service centers? Should I just give up now, use the VAIO as a paper weight, and sell one of my kidneys on the black market to fund the purchase of an iBook? If they expected all of their users to use Linux, they'd be out of business already. Look how successful the Linux distro companies have been. Seems it's not such a perfect replacement if they need custom drivers, eh? I was at Cisco for 4 years and I was still a "junior" in terms of years of service. TM chips ran at lower power at the expense of performance and we all know that what matters isn't power but energy (E = P*t) consumed by a laptop. If a chip consumes energy at half the rate of another but runs at half the speed, which one would you buy? CRU053 B3475 7H3 P4N75 0F 1NT31 4ND 4MD, M070R014 4ND D3C! I think for the vast majority of real-world applications, a slower chip is better in a laptop. On a TM it takes 2 seconds while on another processor it takes 1 but for the most part they consume the same amount of energy because TM's power consumption is half of the alternative. EDP (energy delay product) is a better metric for power efficient devices like this because it factors in performance and not just power and energy. The speed of Netscape/IE is virtually unaffected by CPU speed difference--they're always waiting for disk or net. The...