Berkeley CSUA MOTD:Entry 36015
Berkeley CSUA MOTD
 
WIKI | FAQ | Tech FAQ
http://csua.com/feed/
2025/04/04 [General] UID:1000 Activity:popular
4/4     

2005/2/1 [Recreation/Shopping] UID:36015 Activity:insanely high
2/1     Where can I buy myself a suit that appropriate for going to interviews
        and such? Ideally, this place should be reacheable by public transport
        and have good deals for people on a low budget..
        \_ How much do you want to spend? I have had very good luck at
           places like Nordstrom Rack and Off Fifth, buying $800 suits for
           $400. Marshall's also sometimes (rarely) has suits by designers like
           Zegna, Armani, and Hickey Freeman. If you can spare $400 I would
           start with those places. If you cannot spare $400 then buy a
           nice blazer and a pair of slacks. Even getting a suit altered
           can cost a couple hundred bucks.
               \-er, i dont think that's the case unless you are undergoing
                chiamorphication or something.
                \_ A good tailor will charge > $100 for altering pants and
                   a coat both. Once I bought a designer dress for my gf
                   for $80 (Macy's super special clearance) and it cost more
                   than that to alter it, so it is true of women's clothing
                   as well. You don't want a chimp cutting apart your
                   suit. Yes, they cut it apart. It's not just hems.
                   \- I am not saying you cant spend $$$ to "pimp your suit".
                      i am saying you are probably a moron if you spend that
                      much on a $400 suit immediately after buying it.
                      one certainly would not expect to immediate spend
                      that much after buying a $400 suit. over the lifetime
                      of a nice suit, if you become increasingly chubular,
                      i suppose you may drop more money.
                      \_ If you spend $400 for a $1200 suit and then
                         another $150 on a tailor you have spent $550 and
                         you will look much better than someone who spent
                         $300 (+$50 to tailor) at a place like Men's
                         Wearhouse. The only thing worse than a bad suit is
                         a suit that fits poorly. You don't want to look
                         like you wore your dad's expensive suit, right?
                         \_ My Men's Warehouse suit fits perfectly. I get
                            complimented on it all the time.
                            \_ Perhaps you are the definition of average.
        \_ The Men's Warehouse has pretty good suits at the top end. No one
           will ever mistake one for a $4k Armani suit, but that isn't really
           what you want for a job interview, is it? What kind of job are
           you applying for?
           \_ I recommend bargain-hunting for the top brands rather than
              buying from Men's Wearhouse. The price will be the same and
              the expensive suits will look better. Neiman Marcus also has
              an outlet: Last Call.
              \_ How much is a bargain suit from a top brand? I bought
                 the most expensive suit MW had and it was $400.
           \_ A very good Armani can be had for $1000, including a shirt.
              That's from Emporio Armani itself.  $4000+ is only the couture
              stuff, which you don't really need unless you're Jay-Z or a
              mobster or lawyer or something.
              \_ Do you mean Giorgio Armani? I didn't know Emporio did
                 suits (never seen one).
                 \_ Um... have you ever walked into an Emporio Armani store?
                    suits is just about _all_ they do.
                    \_ Um, what the fuck are you talking about?  What are you
                       smoking and can I have some? -dans
                 \_ I'm not the previous poster, but I own a suit from Emporio
                    Armani, and it kicks ass.  As one would expect, it's well
                    made, and (though this is more a function of the suit's
                    cut and my body shape) the fit is perfect.  The price
                    range for suits at Emporio Armani appears to be
                    $1000-$2000 whereas Giorgio Armani suits appear to start
                    around $2000 and the sky is the limit.  Also, I get the
                    sense that EA suits are a little bit hipper and edgier
                    than GA suits, which makes sense if you think about who's
                    got the money to drop on a $4000 suit.  Seriously though,
                    if you're willing to drop over $2K on a suit, get one
                    handmade by a bespoke tailor like this guy:
                    http://www.englishcut.com
                    To the op: what matters more than anything else is the cut
                    of the suit, and how it looks on *you*.  That said, the
                    quality and cut of suits seem to have a curve similar to
                    that of IBM notebooks.  Spend less than $x and you get
                    crap, spend more than $x and you get something very nice.
                    In my experience, x is approximately 800 retail.
                    One argument I will make toward spending a little more is
                    this: in for a penny, in for a pound.  Basically, $400 or
                    $500 bucks is not chump change.  Why drop that kind of
                    money on a so-so suit for interviews that you wouldn't be
                    willing to wear for a date you'd like to impress?  IMO,
                    it's worth spending the extra $300 or $500 to get a suit
                    that looks sharp.  This is even more true if you're not
                    the sort that plans to own many suits.  If you think
                    you're going to own six or seven suits a year from now,
                    get the cheapie one.  If this is still the only suit
                    you'll own a year from now, bite the bullet, put it on
                    your credit card and pay a little interest.  It's worth
                    it.
                    Re: stores, I totally support the earlier recommendation
                    for department store outlets like Nordstrom Rack because
                    prices are discounted considerably from retail.  On the
                    other hand, I'd say consider the Men's Wearhouse to be an
                    absolute last ditch bottom off the barrel option, I have
                    never found a suit that fits me well there.  One other
                    suggestion, check out Kenneth Cole.  I find that their
                    selection varies wildly, but when it's good you can find
                    some pretty stylish, well cut suits for a reasonable
                    amount of money (price range $400-$800 iirc).  To sum up,
                    Store ordering in terms of style/quality/fit (highest to
                    lowest):
                    Emporio Armani > Kenneth Cole > Department Store Outlet >
                    Men's Wearhouse
                    As I look at this, I realize that the ordering by price is
                    the same :)
                    -dans
                    \_ Emporio Armani is the low end Armani store more
                       geared to casual clothes and youth-oriented trends.
                       No, I have not been in one. I would not mess with
                       it when I can get Collezioni at an outlet for
                       less than $1000. Black Label is the couture line.
                       There is actually a Giorgio Armani outlet in
                       Cabazon but this doesn't help the OP.
                       \_ Armani has at least three lines.  I believe you are
                          thinking of Armani Exchange.  BTW, I think a men's
                          fashion debate on the motd is both hilarious and good.
                          Is this the first time this topic has been
                          introduced here?
                          \_ No, A|X is the lowest. The lines are A|X,
                             Emporio, Collezioni, and Black Label. There is
                             also "Mani" which sits somewhere around
                             Emporio ($800-1200). However, I have yet to
                             see an Emporio Armani suit at a dept. store.
                             You usually see Mani and Collezioni. Black
                             Label is sold at the boutique only.
                             \- If you buy a Mani suit with a friend,
                                you can call it "Our Mani Suit". --psb
                       \_ As with the above poster, I think you are confusing
                          A|X (for the nerds in the audience, no, this is not
                          AIX the IBM unix) with EA (reasonable enough given
                          your professsed ignorance).  I guess I could
                          describe EA as casual if I used country club attire
                          as the baseline for casual.  And, as I stated above,
                          I prefer EA precisely because the cuts are edgier
                          than the Giorgio Armani line (missing from the list
                          above, sold only in the boutique) and the Collezioni
                          line.  If dressing like a middle-aged investment
                          banker is your thing, more power to you.  I see no
                          need to spend more than $2K for an assembly-line
                          made Giorgio Armani or Collezioni line suit when I
                          can get something hand made from scratch for that
                          kind of money (though $2K is low-balling something
                          made from scratch somewhat). -dans
                          \_ GA is the Black Label. If you read Armani's
                             own statement you will see that EA is
                             designed to be casual wear as opposed to
                             formal. Yes, this is for people for whom
                             casual is not jeans and a t-shirt.
                             \_ Yes, the term for this is market segmentation.
                                Were Armani to suggest otherwise, all the
                                folks dropping $4K for the GA line would stop
                                doing so and opt instead to spend a mere
                                $1-$2K for the EA line. -dans
                    \_ And you wear your $4k suit to a job interview?
                       What kind of "work" are you in? Are you a drug
                       runner?
                       \_ Hypothetically speaking, if I was running drugs, or
                          doing anything else illicit that would require
                          getting my hands dirty, I wouldn't be doing it in a
                          $4K suit that would a) call undue attention to me
                          and b) possibly get bloody and need to be disposed
                          of, talk about a waste.  And, yes, there are
                          interviews where a $4k suit is perfectly reasonable,
                          though no technical job comes to mind.  Of course,
                          wearing any suit to a technical interview strikes me
                          as odd, as I stated below, sometimes I don't even
                          wear pants. -dans
                          \_ Whew. I feel a lot better now about your
                             level of common sense.  Though I kind
                             of hoped that you had a job where wearing a
                             suit like that made sense. -bored coder
                             \_ Sometimes I do. :)  As an aside, interviews
                                are sometimes just power contests, and
                                outdressing your interviewer can give you an
                                edge.  This is particulary true when the
                                interviewers will be below or parallel to you
                                on the org chart if you are hired, it's rare,
                                but it is done in some organizations.  Of
                                course, as the schmuck below indicates, paying
                                too much attention to your grooming and dress
                                can actually work against you in a technical
                                interview.  Of course, many nerds don't
                                measure power by how you dress. -dans
        \_ Are you a new grad in a technical field?  In that case, just any
           suit will do.  No one really cares all that much how you're dressed.
           \_ May as well get a nice suit to have for weddings, funerals,
              and so on.
              \_ It sounds like the OP is budget and transportation
                 constrained.  In that case, a better optimization might
                 be to get what is easy now (which is likely to be on the
                 cheaper end of the range) and then worry about a more
                 permanent suit solution later (when he has a job and
                 therefore more income).
           \_ Actually, you are right.. I am not applying for any jobs right
              now. I already have a job. But it would be nice to have a suit
              for occasional social activities and other events, like
              interviews, that might require one. -OP
              \_ You wear suits to technical interviews?  Dude, sometimes I
                 don't even wear pants.
                 \_ I agree, I generally am a little wary of people who
                    show up for a coding job wearing a suit (unless the
                    person is right out of school, in which case I'll
                    overlook it as inexperience).
              \_ Try Macy's. They have decent suits for $250-$450. You
                 really don't need anything more.
              \_ Quite seriously, if you showed up for a job interview
                 wearing an Armani suit, I would not waste my time
                 talking to you. That is why I asked what job you were
                 applying for. I don't even think investment bankers
                 wear suits like that, but I know for certain that
                 programmers and sysadmins never do. These people telling
                 you to spend thousands on a suit are idiots and know
                 nothing about the business world.
                 \_ How the fuck would you know what kind of suit it was?
                    Are you saying that if someone's suit actually fits
                    and looks like it might be real wool you won't hire
                    them?! What a dipshit! You wouldn't know Armani anyway,
                    so don't worry about it.
                    \_ Actually I would, but go ahead and tell yourself that.
                       I own some nice clothes, too, I would just never make
                       the mistake of showing up for an interview as a
                       programmer in clothes nicer than the CEO wears.
                       Any well tailored suit will fit properly, unless
                       it is total junk. Remember this guy said he was
                       "on a low budget."
                       \_ You would *not* know an Armani suit if you saw
                          one. You might think it's a nice suit and even
                          guess it is European by the cut, but you would
                          not know. Wouldn't it be stupid to be wrong and
                          lose out on a good candidate because of your
                          insecurity? When I interview I expect candidates
                          to look nice. That doesn't mean Armani, but
                          it certainly won't hurt.
                       \_ Many CTO's write code and also have to shill to VC's
                          with the CEO.  Being able dress as well or better
                          than the CEO is an asset for any executive level
                          possition.
                          \_ Yes, if you were interviewing for the position
                             of CTO, you would want to wear a very nice suit.
                             Maybe even a $4k suit. But that is not what
                             the original poster is doing. At least, I am
                             almost 100% sure of that.
                             \_ #t
        \_ The last suit I bought came from Brooks Brothers.  It fits nicely,
           looks good on me, and I'm happy with it.  They also don't charge
           extra for alterations.  If you're looking for something in a
           relatively conservative cut, you can get to their Union Square
           location by BART.  While you're there, the Macy's Men's store in
           Union Square also has a good selection of suits.  I've heard
           good things about Jos. A. Bank, which has a location in
           Embarcadero Center and gets compared to Brooks Brothers a lot,
           but I haven't been in one of their stores yet.
           \_ Brooks Brothers used to be well-made, but is now crap made
              God-knows-where. Macy's good suits like Hugo Boss, but you will
              pay too much. Go to the outlets where you can get quality
              God-knows-where. Macy's has good suits like Hugo Boss, but you
              will pay too much. Go to the outlets where you can get quality
              suits for 50% or less of retail.
              \_ I wouldn't call Brooks Brothers crap (thought I haven't
                 looked in a year or two), but it is overpriced for what you
                 get.  Also, as the PP said, BB suits are cut conservatively.
                 This is a nice safe bet for the OP if he can't distinguish
                 between hip and tacky, but as I said above, in for a penny,
                 in for a pound.  If OP has any fashion sense (or any friends
                 with same), go for something with a little more punch.  That
                 said, I really like Brooks Brothers ties, particularly the
                 ones in solid colors. -dans
                 \_ BB is now crap made in SE Asia or something like that.
                    There was a time when it was the de facto standard.
        \_ I agree spend $800 or more and get a nice well-made suit.
           If you end up buying from a place like Macy's you can get
           a discount of 10-20% (depending on their current promo,changes
           weekly) if you open up a macy's charge card account. Save some
           serious money there. Also they should be free alterations and
           make sure they give you a suit-bag
           For Men's Wherehouse or other discounters, make sure the suit
           is well-made...even if it's a brand-name for some reason the
           stitching is not right...make sure you have a 2nd opinion and
           look at the suit from all angles. A good suit makes you look
           and feel good. Makes you look sharp and the women like that.
           Esp. if you normally dress Berkeley/CS/geek/frumpy-like
           most of the time, when you surprise her by wearing a
           suit on a nice date in the city to see some high-culture
           artsy shit, and chi-chi or frenchy foodie place, you'll
           get some that night. Also make sure you have good shoes,
           belt, socks boxers, and undershirts. Don't skimp.
           \_ Right boxers? obreddwarfreference.
           \_ I wouldn't worry about the socks, boxers, and undershirt, but
              the belt and particularly the shoes are really important.
              Kenneth Cole does really nice shoes, though sometimes they can
              be pricey.  Steve Madden shoes are cheaper, but you have to be
              careful because some of them look it, and even if you find a
              good looking pair of shoes, they won't last more than a year or
              so with regular wear.
              -dans
2025/04/04 [General] UID:1000 Activity:popular
4/4     

You may also be interested in these entries...
2012/12/4-18 [Recreation/Dating] UID:54543 Activity:nil
12/4    Why are eastern european models so plentiful and hot?
        \_ By "models" do you mean cam stippers? I wonder that
           myself.
        \_ Less processed food?
        \_ Genetics. I went to Estonia this summer and that's just what
           the women there look like: light eyes, blonde or light brown
	...
2010/2/9-3/9 [Recreation/Dating] UID:53698 Activity:nil
2/9     Monogamy is a form of sexual optimization
        http://infoproc.blogspot.com/2010/02/new-dating-game.html
        \_ http://www.overcomingbias.com/2009/07/who-cares-about-unsexy-men.html
           \_ http://wwwhogivesashit.com
        \_ http://tinyurl.com/y8fbn2a
           What do women want? The guy that the other women want, it turns out.
	...
2009/10/11-11/3 [Recreation/Food/Alcohol, Recreation/Food] UID:53444 Activity:low
10/11   Are there any CSUA'ers in NYC, or who know things to do in NYC? steven
        and I are doing the tourist thing.
        \_ I thought the Empire State Building was much better than I
           expected it to be. The museums are all stellar, especially the
           Met, MoMA, and Natural History Museum.  Lots of good
           plays/shows/concerts. Top notch restaurants. Worth seeing the Statue
	...
2009/10/12-11/3 [Recreation/Food/Alcohol, Recreation/Food] UID:53446 Activity:low
10/12   In the same spirit as below, I'm going to be in the Florida Keys
        for a few days Thanksgiving Week.  Any recs on what to do, where
        to stay, what to eat.  All I know about is going snorkeling.
        Also in Miami for a day and half, if you have any recs there.
        \_ http://csua.com/?entry=51778
        \_ You know how when you depart from an airport you need to pay
	...
Cache (8192 bytes)
www.englishcut.com
English Cut the website of thomas mahon, bespoke savile row tailor, london. January 30, 2005 New York trip I'm down in London for the next couple of days, looking after clients, so I shan't be writing much here till mid-week at the earliest. However, I am getting organised for my next New York trip. bespoke suit is worth its high asking pric e, or else I wouldn't bother selling them. They look better, they fit be tter, and they last years longer than their competition. Luckily for suit lovers everywhere, with modern technology there are now some really good ready-to-wear, manufactured suits being made, starting at only a few hundred pounds. Fifty years ago, suits that were both good and cheap did not exist. So regardless of your budget, you have a lot of options. Here's the basic hierarchy to consider: 1 A totally machine made, off-the-peg suit. The production systems for these is so sl ick, a suit is literally made in minutes. Marks & Spenc er For the money, the British high street retailer, Marks & Spencer mak es as good a suit as anyone. With machine-made, all manufacturers have pattern designers who create a basic pattern which, in their interpretation, would fit most people. S o what youve got to do is be guided by the fit and the feel of a jacket around the neck and shoulders. If youre in-between sizes, get the larger size and pay a high street alt eration tailor 20-30 to have it taken in or whatever. Like I said, pay attention round the nec k and shoulders. What you're getting is the same machin e-made as Number One, but the basic pattern will have slight alterations made at the factory to improve the overall fit. You will also get more possibilities to personalize the suit, pocket details, sty le etc. Bear in mind the guy who measures you may only have been in the job for a few weeks, or even a few hours. Hes only running a tape around you and ticking style boxes on the order form. There are high street chains that offer this service, and even proper tai lors as well. T he principals, Tony Hewitt and Ravi Tailor (yes, his real name) offer tr ue bespoke that's up there with the best. This in no way compromises their bespoke suits, theyre just simply allowing their customers the option of only climbing halfway up t he sartorial ladder. Ultimately with made-to-mesure, your suit is at the mercy of the manufact urer. But at least with having an experienced cutter like Tony or Ravi t o measure you, theres far less chance of disappointment. These are made by hand, and yes, the quality is generally very high. It's just using humans instead of machines , cutting from generic, standardised patterns, not your own individual m easurements. Yes, the button holes will be hand-sewn, just like "bespoke". Yes, your c oat will be made with a "floating" canvas, just like bespoke. But the as sembly line will still be cranking out twenty five "Size 40s" in a singl e shift, unlike bespoke. And you can order the suit in the morning, and be wearing it by the afternoon. I ha d made bespoke for the owners of Reuben's for several years. Then one da y they phoned me up and said they wanted to put the same soft look as my bespoke into a ready-to-wear. Im not saying youll like them (not everybody likes me, either), but they're definitely worth a look. These are good clothes, ra nging from around 1000, up to 3000. Frankly, I think the expensive end of this category is asking a lot of mo ney for something that comes off an assembly line. These companies also do a form of bespoke, wh ich involves things being sent away to base manufacturers. Again, for th at kind of money, I really don't think it's personal enough. These shears were given to me by head cutter, Mr Hallberry on his retire ment, after forty years with Anderson & Sheppard. They were the original shears used by Mr Sheppard of Anderson & Sheppard, which first opened its doors in 1905. Mr Sheppard gave them to Mr Hallberry, decades ago, w hen he retired. And doubtless I'll pass them on to some young turk when my turn to step down arrives. I was very fortunate to work at Anderson's with Mr Hallberry and the two other senior cutters, Colin Harvey and Brian Russell. I was Mr Hallberry's striker (undercutter), and my future partner, Edwin was striker for Mr Harvey. Although this was comparatively only a few y ears ago, the company was still very much old school. Ed & I had to addr ess the cutters as 'Sir' or 'Mr' ..... It may look as if Im painting a very austere atmosphere of the company, but although it was quite Dickensian at times, it was a great environmen t to be part of. Mr Hallberry was every bit your Swedish expat cutter, silver hair & steel blue eyes. His attitude to the profession was as sha rp as his shears, he didnt suffer fools gladly; On a red hot August day in early 1990, I sneaked out of the side door of Andersons to a cafe, no more than 50 yards away, for a sandwich to go. To go out at lunchtime was not a crime, however I had committed a cardina l sin. Not only was I without a jacket, but I was wearing braces (suspen ders). For this I was summoned and duly berated for my sloppiness. As Mr Hallberry said, cutters of A&S do not go out in there shirt sleeves, l et alone their underwear. When I write of my time with A&S it feels as if I worked there in the 50s , not the 90s. But you got used to such a formal atmosphere- no idle co nversation, no whistling, no music or anything that could distract. You remember how unique it was to just hear the clipping of shears into e ndless privileged clients' clothes (Royalty, movie stars, that kind of t hing) and the soft drone of the overhead fans. We had no air conditionin g, and the fans were kept slow or theyd blow the patterns off the board s, if they were turned up to any worthwhile level. Comical really, but w hos complaining, we wouldt have dared. We send Christmas cards and ta lk from time to time, but hes never been back to check on the old place . I come down to my London office on Savile Row most weeks, or you can come to Cumbria if you fancy a break. I also visit New York every 2-3 months , if youd rather be fitted there. With larger commissions I will consid er travelling to places off my usual beaten track- Hong Kong, Tokyo, Dub ai, wherever. jpg After years and years of training, here's the real test of a "cutter"- th e real desire to cut their first customer's suit. Technical ability has to be equalled by confidence, expression and talent . The one who is in the know isn't always the one who knows how. TrackBack January 13, 2005 Standard Opener This is the standard opening letter I use. I contains most of the necessa ry initial information: Dear Sir/Madame, Thank you for giving me the time to introduce my bespoke tailoring servi ce to you. I do understand that initially hand tailoring may be of no interest to y ou, or you may already have a tailor which you are more than happy with , however I pray (excuse my hope of divine inducement) that I may tempt you to investigate further. Although one of the youngest tailors on Savile Row I have over twenty ye ars experience working at the highest level in hand tailoring, with mos t of my influence from my former company, Anderson & Sheppard. This in fluence is basically that I measure, then from a blank sheet, hand cut an individual pattern for you! Your clothes are then created thr ough the various fitting stages to produce the perfect combination of s oft, natural and very comfortable clothes with a distinct blend of aest hetics & your individual style. Obviously I use only the finest materials sourced from London merchants and around the world, also the whole process is controlled by me, an ex travagance not always afforded by larger companies. As I choose not to be entirely based in London, this heretic status does give you the benefit of enabling me to charge on average 20% less than my competitors. This at least must take the sting out of the London co ngestion charge. At this point your patience has probably worn thinner than the seat of t he last suit you bought, so Ill spare you the name dropping of custome rs and look forward to meeting you instead. You can meet me at either o f my...