Berkeley CSUA MOTD:Entry 30689
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2025/04/04 [General] UID:1000 Activity:popular
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2004/6/9 [Consumer/Camera] UID:30689 Activity:high
6/9     Photo Enthusiasts.  I'm looking for a camera mainly for outdoors
        shots.  Camping, Hiking, Travel, etc.  I'm leaning towards the dSLR's.
        What do you think of Canon Eos Rebel (D300), D10, Nikon D70, and
        Olympus E-1.  I also hear rumors of a cheaper Olympus dSLR in the
        late summer.  The only consumer compacts I'm considering are the
        8 MP's, 8080, Powershot Pro1, etc., that have almost all the features
        of a dSLR.  Any thoughts on these cameras, or recommendations would
        be greatly appreciated.
        \_ Wow, check out all these photography geeks.  Now I know where all
           the net pr0n is coming from.
        \_ sounds like you just want a fancy point-n-shoot and have no existing
           lens.  In that case, look at Pentax, Sigma, and Olympus.  They tendto
           be cheap, and their camera is pretty good.
           to be cheap, and their camera is pretty good.
        \_ shoot me an email.  and for those who are interested in this
           debate... join me.           -kngharv
        \_ http://csua.com/?q=canon+rebel&sort=d
        \_ I recommend the canon 300D. I have one and I use it mostly for
           taking photos while traveling. It is light enough (with the
           stock 18-55 lens or a 28-105 lens) that it doesn't feel like a
           burden to carry while traveling.
           The 10D is basically the same camera as the 300D except that it
           is much heavier, more expensive and doesn't come with a lens. The
           added weight of the 10D was one of the factors that led me to the
           300D. (To be fair the 10D's extra weight is in the magnesium body
           which probably makes it a more robust camera, but the plastic 300D
           seems sufficiently robust for ordinary traveler).
           I would avoid the Nikon and the Olympus since they come with CCD
           sensors. The images from CCDs are not nearly as clear as those from
           the CMOS sensor in the 300D and the 10D. (AFAIK, the way a CCD
           sensor works is that each "pixel" captures just one color and
           then the other colors are interpolated from the adj. pixels. The
           CMOS captures every color at every pixel giving a more accurate
           and clearer/less-noisy photo). --ranga
        \_ Didn't I hear recently that there was some EOS Rebel hack that
           lets you unlock most of the features available on a D30?
           \_ I just googled and saw this:
           http://www.bahneman.com/liem/photos/tricks/digital-rebel-tricks.html
              I think the dig. rebel is a pretty good deal anyway.
           \- if you dont have an investment in nikon gear, i would avoid
              nikon, unless you are willing to spend $$$ and prefer nikon
              look/feel/interface to canon. again, if you dont have a lens
              \_ Is this b/c of $$$ of Nikkor lenses or b/c of Canon quality?
                 \_ Nikon and Canon has similiar quality.  Both are excellent.
                    Nikon tend to have better wide angle lens, better macro
                    lens, and better flash technology.  Canon tend to have
                    better auto-focus (EV +1 or better), much better focusing
                    speed at telephoto, and generally more feature-packed
                    than nikon for similiar-priced camrea body.
                    Canon is a better company,though.  Nikon's long-term
                    viability is in question            -nikon guy
              investment, i think you need to figure out your total budget
              for body+lens, rather than treat them separately. i think a
              reasonable analogy is amp:body::speaker:lens. you should go to
              http://photo.net and narrow it down some [either to 2-3 models or
              compare on some narrow question rather than "what is better"].
              i note in passing, that weight concerns can be a big deal
              if outdoor = hiking with equipment. while the 1.5x multipler
              is nice for your zoom shots, it makes panoramaic difficult.
              a nice 24prime becomes a 35mm. an 18mm lens or zoom will get
              you 28mm view field, but that is a $$, large lens. if outdoor
              means "at the family BBQ" than this doesnt apply. --psb
              \_ D70 and D300 come packaged w/an 18mm lens.  Where do the
                 diff's betw. a pro-level $2k+ 18mm vs. the DX 18mm lie?
                 \_ in general, there is no such thing as "pro level" versus
                    "consumer" level lens.  If you got the chance, look at
                    \- i personally dont use those terms but there is for
                       sure a difference in build quality as well as specs
                       between say the nikkor 50 1.8 [$100]and nikkor 50 1.4
                       [$300], or the nikon 18-35zoom [<$500] and the 17-35
                       zoom [$1000+] ... i think it is fair to characterize
                       a 300/2.8 as "pro" lens vs. a 300mm zoom at 5.6.
                       lens grouping can also affect optical quality, such
                       as whether a floating element is used. --psb
                       \_ yes, it is true that slower lens tend to have inferior
                          build quality than faster one.  The cheaper lens is
                          somewhat optically inferior than the expensive counter-
                          part is actually generally not true (with exception of
                       \_ yes, it is true that slower lens tend to have
                          inferior build quality than faster one.  The cheaper
                          lens is somewhat optically inferior than the
                          expensive counter-part is actually generally not
                          true (with exception o f
                          "consumer zoom").  50mm f/1.4 definitely has better
                          build quality than 50mm f/1.8.  But in Nikon's case,
                          50mm f/1.8 is actually a bit sharper than the f/1.4
                          counter part.  For 85mm f/1.4 and 85mm f/1.8, the 85mm f/1.4
                          has a lot more apature blade thus make brokeh a lot nicer.
                          counter part.  For 85mm f/1.4 and 85mm f/1.8, the
                          85mm f/1.4 has a lot more apature blade thus make
                          brokeh a lot nicer.
                          But aside from that, the optical differences betweenthe two
                          is insignificant.  I have a 70-210mm f/4.  And in that case,
                          Nikon's 80-200mm f/2.8 is optically superior, eventhough
                          I don't think they DELIBERATELY make the slower lensoptically
                          inferior.  The truth is, bulk of the cost lies upon making a
                          lens just this bit faster.    -kngharv
                          the two is insignificant.  I have a 70-210mm f/4.
                          And in tha t case, Nikon's 80-200mm f/2.8 is
                          optically superior, eventhough I don't think they
                          DELIBERATELY make the slower lens optically
                          inferior.  The truth is, bulk of the cost lies
                          upon m aking a lens just this bit faster.    -kngharv
                          [formatd]
                    both focal length and maximum apature.  larger the
                    maximum apature, more expensive it is. Just give you an
                    idea.  Nikon has two similiar lenses:  85mm f/1.4 and
                    85mm f/1.8.  note, that f/1.8 is only 2/3 stop slower than
                    f/1.4.  But 85mm f/1.4 cost twice as much, and weights
                    three times as much as 85mm f/1.8.  Does it mean that
                    85mm f/1.8 is optically inferior? no.  all it means
                    is that it is slower, nothing more.
              \- BTW, I cant emphasize enough about the weight. when you
                 are "travelling" it is a big commitment to carry 5lbs and
                 +$3k in gear. are you sure the "extra reach" of the SLR
                 approach is worth it? if you end up taking 5x as many pictures
                 with a small digital, you'll probably end up with as many
                 good pix. BTW, the main "feature" of a dSLR is choice of
                 lens, not can you choose iso level etc. --psb
                 \_ there are some feature differences too I think. i.e. can
                    you get the features like high megapixels, wide iso
                    range, and the various other settings in a much lighter
                    package?
                    \_ main selling point of dSLR is the flexibility of interchangable
                       lens. Sure, there are functional differences, but they are
                       insignificant for most people... or obscure.  Example of
                       obscure feature: shutter lag.  Would you spend extra $500
                       for faster shutter lag?
                    \_ main selling point of dSLR is the flexibility of
                       interchangable lens. Sure, there are functional
                       differences, but they are insignificant for most
                       people... or obscure.  Example of obscure feature:
                       shutter lag.  Would you spend extra $500 for faster
                       shutter lag?
                      \_ that's what I'm saying, it's not $500 extra for a
                         dig. rebel compared to a reasonable alternative.
                         sure if someone just wants snapshots then any cheap
                         camera will do.
                 \_ That's the _only_ reason I'm considering the 8MP compacts.
                    Weight.  OTOH, with the dSLR packaged lenses, I'd only
                    need to get a zoom lens to 133mm to get the same zoom range
                    as the 8MP compacts.  I was thinking of pairing the dSLR
                    up with a sub-compact for when I want to go very light,
                    and ditch the extra 2-3 lbs' of camera weight.  The other
                    "main feature" of dSLR's I like is the fps and shutter lag.
                    Both are very problematic w/compact cameras.
                 \_ Actually most of the dSLR's come with a CMOS sensor instead
                    of a CCD sensor. The image clarity from a 6 MP CMOS sensor
                    is better than anything even the 8 MP p&s compact digicams
                    can achieve. I bought the 300D because of the sensor, not
                    because I could switch lenses.
        \_ Recent Popular Photography and Imaging magazine gave the edge
           to the Nikon D70 over the Canon Digital Rebel. It gives it a
           bang-for-the-buck edge over the D100.
                             \-D100 is really sleazy naming ... implying it
                               is a "digital f100" when it is a digital N80
                               which is an ok camera but not really a serious
                               camera like the F90 and higher. btw, i really
                               really really hate the G lenses ... i like
                               having aperture control on the lens. --psb
           \_ I just hate that the D70 has only ISO 200 minimum.
2025/04/04 [General] UID:1000 Activity:popular
4/4     

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csua.com/?q=canon+rebel&sort=d
Rebel is not designed to tinker with both without pushing ... the pro/near-pro photographers at work about which canon to get ... for someone learning photograhy and that the digital rebel was a ... had a digital rebel which they used for personal photography ... Personally, I feel that the digital rebel is a great camera ... A colleague told me about a decent Nikon (D2H) but the lenses seem to be pretty expensive. I've also had a Canon (10D, 30D, 60D) but I saw an article a while back about blurry color quality around the edges of digital SLR pix, or is that dependent on ... then, I would reluctant to suggest you get a Canon's digital rebel.
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www.bahneman.com/liem/photos/tricks/digital-rebel-tricks.html
Canon EOS 300D Digital Rebel Tips and Tricks While a solid camera out of the box, the Canon EOS 300D Digital Rebel user experience can be enhanced with a few simple, money-saving tricks. In fact, I roughly estimate that these tips and tricks can save you over $500 I know that claiming a savings of over $500 might seem far fetched, but I will show you below that it is possible. Disclaimer: Most, if not all of these tips and tricks could violate your Camera's warranty. Any use of these tips is at your will and not the fault of this website or the author. Most of this information is gleaned from various forums, so the information to the best of my ability, is as accurate as possible, though I do not guarantee the results or accuracy of the claims below. New in this release: - ISO 3200 - Mirror Lock up Changes: - 'Left' button selects the autofocus mode: PA-1 - ONEShot PA-2 - AIservo (dosn't work right now) PA-3 - AIfocusAF - FEC is moved to JUMP button - 'Right' button has no function assigned - the default button in delete prompt was changed from 'Cancel' to 'OK'. Now if you want to delete an image, press DEL button and then SET one. Thanks Michael and Joey for the tip 4/9/2004 - Multilingual support Sorry about the delay on this one. This fixes non-english support for menus in the firmware All of the enhancements below are included. This is known as the "M" version, presumably for multilingual. This update includes the revisions noted in the other releases this week: 4/5/2004 - Yet another firmware from Wasia Due to overwhelming requests to preserve the function of the WB button for what it's intended for, Wasia has updated his firmware to use the SET button to enable FEC. FIR 000CE6AB: 52 B7 000CE6AC: F2 48 00150EE1: 34 38 00181FF5: B9 D5 Besides unlocking Custom Functions menu, it REPLACES WB button with FEC button. BigMike from DPReview's Forum explains: Easy to install, and works as advertized. For new users that don't know what FEC is, it stands for flash exposure compensation. In short, it allows you to adjust the strength of the flash higher, or lower. You can have your "set" button work the FEC, or have it bring up the normal "quality setting" menu. Just thought I would mention it for those who were interested. PureVector on DPReview advises: 1) Reset all the CF to the original 300D settings. Note: you cannot use the Reset option in the menu, it does not affect the CF's. If it is still blinking, you have not set all of the CF properly. What IS the Russian Firmware Hack Its been widely known that the Canon EOS 300D Digital Rebel and the Canon EOS 10D DSLR's are similar beasts. Side-by-side comparisons you can see that most of the features that vary are catagorized as "Customizable". The 10D has a menu item called "Custom Functions" which allows these settings to be adjusted. Well, a fellow in Russia found that in the latest firmware, by switching a single byte in the firmware image, he was able to enable most of these 10D "Custom Functions" in the Digital Rebel. Now, some features, such as more frames in rapid shooting, are hardware-limitations but some features lacking such as Flash Exposure Compensation and embedded JPEG quality are found to be working in the 300D. This is not the 10D firmware, it is the 300D firmware with some of the dormant 10D features enabled. The developers probably shared the codebase between the two models. Now, be aware that this Modified firmware will violate your warranty! The Pringles lid may tend toward the blue, but many swear by 1 or 2 coffee filters. Use the instructions for setting custom white balance in your manual. Savings: $80 price of ExpoDisc Nokia Hands-free Remote Control as a Remote Shutter Release Spend $1 at a Dollar Store and get a functional shutter release cord for your Canon Digital Rebel! Apparently someone has found that a cheap Nokia hands free cord kit works as a shutter release cord for the Digital Rebel. The Mute button on the cord works as the shutter release. This particular unit was discovered at a local dollar store. its very handy, small and retractable, so it will come in very handy." Also, says Antonion Cotto:" Any cell phone hands free with a button on it will work as a remote trigger. I had one already for my cell phone (so it did not cost me anything). All you have to do is cut the wire that goes to the ear piece. When you press the button, it focuses, gets a lock, and fires the shutter. Once the camera has a focus lock, you can keep hitting the shutter for quick shots. For bulb, switch camera to manual, set shutter to bulb, and press button. This will again get focus lock first, open the shutter, and remain open open until you let the button go." This hack will allow you to emulate this missing functionality from the 300D. Black Hat Trick Without a remote shutter cord, how does one take shake-free long timed exposures? This one isn't a new trick, its actually a very old astrophotography trick. Cover the end of the lens, without touching it, with a dark-lined object (such as a hat). Open the shutter with your hand count to three to allow any tripod vibration to dampen out, then quickly remove the hat/cover from the lens. Be sure that no lights around you reflect off of you or the hat object when you remove or replace it over the lens. Savings: $25 RS-60 remote cord or wireless remote Extending your RS-60 remote Ever find the release cord for the Digital Rebel too short and don't want to resort to the cost of the IR remote? 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Today, with the help of Rong Zhou, I was finally able to create my owh CCF file by programming my Pocket PC to learn the two commands produced by the RC-1 (immediate trigger and 2 s delay trigger). Savings: $25 over Canon IR Remote Handy, powerful blower Posted by John Telleria on DP review's forums: I searched the forums here and saw that many have had success with the Giotto Rocket Air blower. I called a local photographic equipment store in town to see if they carried the Rocket Air. The sales guy I spoke to said they did but were out of stock and didn't expect to receive any for a couple weeks. But he suggested that I go to either Walgreens or Walmart and get what's called an ear syringe. An ear syringe is nothing but a plastic blower with a LARGE bulb, comparable to the bulb size of the Rocket Air. I was FINALLY able to get rid of that pesky dust particle. And saved me the trouble of sending my camera to Canon for a cleaning. Savings: $5 over Rocket Air Johnson & Johnson Flash Diffuser This tip comes via e-mail from Brian Hindley: My wife threw out an empty Johnson and Johnson 15oz (425g) white plastic Talcum powder jar this morning. On a hunch, I cut it about 2 1/2" from the bottom of the jar, made a couple of slices with my sizzors on the corners and found that it fits very nicely on my 550ex. It actually looks pretty professional except for the blue wording "Johnson and Johnson" and bar code printing which resides on top and bottom of the "defuser", which nobody would normally see and which could be removed. It isn't the quality of my Stoffen Omibounce, but so far the pictures seem to be just as good. I haven't tested this extensively yet and I am not sure just how to test it or what to test (although someone suggested to check the white balance carefully). The point is, if you want to try a defuser...
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